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How to win with a 9-stone handicap
Path: HandicapGoPath · Prev: HowToWinAgainst9StoneHandicap · Next: ChessWhizAgainstLavalyn
Keywords: Strategy
Now, some people would say that this needs no explanations, but in my humble opinion, the only people who receive these handicaps are weak, or weaker than the likes of Bill, Dieter, and unkx80; so maybe a view from you guys how to play it? Offhand, I was thinking, mirror Go isn't ideal, but how about Partial Mirror Go? I don't know if someone else has already thought of this, but, here's my views on the subject. -- Jasonred Charles Matthews: Like it says in the book, Black must attack. Not for too long, though: Black's initial position makes it safe to attack, but as White settles groups it becomes more dangerous for Black's own weak groups. And not too hard, either: that leads into the amarigatachi mistake of playing out 'over the top' attacks to the bitter end. No, attack to make territory: to build frameworks and later to consolidate them. Jan: I find it very useful to try to separate White in order to get targets to attack. Also when I think I am about to be surrounded by White, I don't try to live, but I always try (and usually succeed) to escape into the center. In a nine-stone handicap game, Black will usually have something to escape to. Bill: First, why? As White I regard a high-handicap game as a teaching game. Why shouldn't Black do the same? Just make what you think are the best moves, and learn something when they are not the best. :-) The standard advice for high handicap games is to balance attack and defense 30-70, the reverse of the mix for even games. There is something to that, but I always attacked like hell with high handicaps, and, looking back, have no regrets. Besides, and more importantly, that advice says nothing about dual-purpose moves. You should always look for dual-purpose moves. The advice of chess master E. A. Znosko-Borovsky is good: It is not a move that you seek, not even the best move, but a realizable plan. Here is an example to illustrate these ideas.
For
At first glance,
A lot of Black players would respond to
White is busy, and thus not too likely to continue with
This position is similar to a double kakari joseki where White has a stone at a instead of
You might think that Black b would be a better attack against the white stone, since it virtually assures its capture. But, by the same token, that would make it easy for White to give the stone up. The large scale attack risks the stone's eventual escape, or, more likely, that White will get some useful aji out of it, but it is the way to go. If either of those things happen, Black should be able to get compensation, not equitable compensation, (Black's taking nine stones), but good enough. Besides, White b would make it easy for White. Black's job is not to make it easy for White.
To
Black trades the iron pillar for the double kakari (all marked with squares). Now White at
You don't see
Instead of In short, make a plan, look for dual-purpose plays, think big, attack, make trades, sacrifice stones, play thickly. Good luck! Klaus: Stangely I like the white position! (For being a nine stone handicap.) The marked black stones are weak. White might start to frighten them by playing a (after which a cap at b might be fun later, remembering the handicap!) White has succeded in making 3 stable groups, without being shut in. O.K.: almost all black stones are weak, but White has at least one target (marked stones). All the c points might lead to interesting invasions and even the overplay at d comes into consideration. I guess, White is fine, even without finding a black blunder. Darron Shaffer: I'm only an AGA 6 kyu, but do play above my strength at high handicaps, so: A few rules for Black in nine-stone games:
Adamzero: I think it should be noted that while a lot of these bits of advice will increase your winning percentage as Black in nine-stone games, I do not believe they will increase your strength particularly well or quickly. I think that the best thing one can do is play your hardest, and try to play as though you were White's equal (not as though he were yours, there is a big difference). If you think your move would be passive, but you know it is safe and could help you win, play the move you think is correct and severe. Instead of letting White settle in order to take profit and win by attrition, attack White and punish her for playing too deeply in your sphere of influence. All this may cause you to lose more games, as White's tactical superiority is so great, but you'll be forming good habits, even game habits, not huge handicap habits. And you'll be forcing White to play reasonable moves, for fear that you'll punish her for playing too ambitiously or disrespectfully. All of this will help you get stronger, though it might be disheartening to lose so much. But if you're taking nine stones, the goal should not be winning, but learning. (Just my two cents.) Jan: Here's an interesting idea I heard from a fellow Go player who is about my level: play as if the handicap stones weren't there. I was confused at first, but as he explained, it started to make sense. Just pretend you're playing white in an even game and play your stones wherever you'd want them to be during the first moves: on the 3-4 point or on the 3-3 point or wherever. If you want to play on a 4-4 point - hey presto! - it's already there, you can take another corner (if you like to play nirensei you'll bump into this 'problem' quite early)! When the time to extend to the sides comes and you think playing hoshi there is best - another bonus move! If you want to play on the third line instead, do so. I think you need to be slightly arrogant to play this way (as if you don't need those handicap stones) and you have to count your liberties more often, but I think it could help you learn to play on an even footing. Maybe I will paint 9 of my black stones grey to illustrate the difference :-) Charles I think this advice is potentially misleading. Be kind to your handicap stones. They should be brought into the game with some definite role, not just used as cannon-fodder. This is an accordance with the general principle: play taking into account your existing stones. Path: HandicapGoPath · Prev: HowToWinAgainst9StoneHandicap · Next: ChessWhizAgainstLavalyn This is a copy of the living page "How to win with a 9-stone handicap" at Sensei's Library. ![]() |