4-4 point low approach attach-block joseki

  Difficulty: Intermediate   Keywords: Joseki
% !!! Edit [Chinese Classical Joseki] if you add/remove diagrams at the beginning of this page!
[Diagram]

Attach-block

After exchanging W1 for B2, White is left with two cutting points. Common ways to handle this situation are a emphasising outside influence and b emphasising side territory. c is seen when White is already strong along the side to build a framework.

[Diagram]

Attach-block joseki a

White has outside influence, Black considerable territory. Black can aim at a later to start an endgame ko, i.e. White can't expect to make much territory along the edge.

[Diagram]

Attach-block joseki b

B8 may be played at a. With B6 Black can push once more at W7, keeping White low on the upper side.

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Follow-up

After W1 Black can only defend at B2 and can't block at a. If Black blocks, White can play at B2 itself, taking the corner one way or another.

[Diagram]

Attach-block joseki c

When White is strong on the upper side and does not like to concede a large corner as after a or being kept low as is likely after b W6 is sometimes seen in professional games.


Not playing the atari?

A first interesting point about this joseki concerns W4. Can White omit this play in order to leave a weakness at the 3-3 point in the corner?

[Diagram]

Not playing atari

That idea is really in the realm of handicap go: playing the atari is undoubtedly the honte. There is an example from a quickplay game Cho Chikun-Kato Masao 1990-09-09, as here. After W1 Black made strong shape with B2, and White invaded at once with W3, making miai of a and b.

In general this would be considered a thin way for White to play.

[Diagram]

Not playing atari in old China

This Chinese classical joseki frequently occurs in old Chinese games when the marked stone approaches hoshi only after the two stones at the right have been played. Instead of W3, white a black b might be possible. The overall aim here is probably to settle white quickly.


Discussion

Am I correct in thinking that the choice of W6 depends greatly on the situation along the top side of the board? W2 and W6 are in a good position to exploit a play W8 at the circled point. However, leaving aside the objection that White should have made an approach on the open side, if Black already has a stone in the vicinity of the marked point, would White not be better advised to play at a and seek influence in the centre, or is it simply the case that under those circumstances this is not joseki in the sense of an equitable result being attained?

[Diagram]

Is a move at a valid?

Phlegmatic



I agree with you that in that case White a rather than W6 appears to be the correct joseki. In fact, looking at pro games, I find that W6 is not a very common move: If White wants to make territory, White b is more common; if White goes for influence or thickness, a is. - Andre Engels

In Japan three years ago, I heard Tokimoto Hajime comment about this; saying that amateur players, who like the move at a, may run short of territory. That is, the pro attitude is rather more territorial here.

More variations can be added: I posted this new page to split it from the attach-block shape page. -- Charles Matthews

The pro attitude seems to be different in their own games as compared to their comments on amateur moves. -- Tapir


This is a copy of the living page "4-4 point low approach attach-block joseki" at Sensei's Library.
(OC) 2012 the Authors, published under the OpenContent License V1.0.
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