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KjeldPetersen

 

Goban Self Made
Path: MakingYourOwnEquipment   · Prev: BlindGo   · Next: KoshGobans
    Keywords: Equipment

I have now finished my first try to make my own Goban. Beechwood. 21 kg

http://da.wikipedia.org/upload/5/5e/Goban4.jpg

I had access to a large workshop, where they had a milling machine, so that the 9 pieces that the board is made of became equal in size. The board is glued together with ordinary white glue for wood. I used the values from Equipment Dimensions

I bought the legs in a furniture shop, but they were very expensive. I found some special screws that had a thread for wood on the outside and thread for metal on the inside. With 4 of those in the board and 1 in each leg, and a metal thread bar in between, it is possible to unscrew the legs.

The lines are drawn with an overhead pen, and the whole board is painted with oil.

The only thing that is missing, is the pyramid like hole on the bottom side. Does any one have the meassure for that ?

Kjeld Petersen


Tamsin: That looks really gorgeous. I hope you get a lot of pleasure from it. Well done!

Karl Knechtel: Agreed. Impressive.

Eratos: How much could I pay you to make me another? :)

JamSon? : I can only agree to the statements already lanced here. But how did you solve the "sound-problem". Did you work in some "sound supporting" technique to compensate that it is not made out of the traditional japanese wood? If you or some other already enlightened could answer, this would be very great. I also do wonder that you only glued the pieces together, did you really not apply some woodworking techniques? Pictures of the downside are appreciated, too. I want to thank you very much for already sharing your knowledge. Mere the best wishes. Regards JamSon?.

Kjeld Petersen What do you mean by WoodWorking ? Normal white wood glue is strong enough to hold the parts together. In particular when there is this large area which is glued and pressed together. They will never fall apart. About sound: Well !!! I just made the board, and I can say now, that if you tap on the board with a stone, it doesn't sound the same all over it. But maybe a pyramid like hole at the buttom will solve this problem. I still haven't found the size for the hole. Another problem is the glue. It has to dry out. And because there is this big surface, there is also a lot of moister in the glue. So it is first now, after a year that the board is fully dried out, and that I can the surface finish with sandpaper. I'm a little afraid that if I put oil on again, that the glue line will start swelling up again.

JamSon?: Great that you answered that fast. Maybe i can inspire you with this ( honorcode: i do promise that i am in no relation to the company you will reach by following the link. The sole intention is to show out that there are existing some innovations which lead to the _typical_ sound with non - traditional wood. So everybody can try to reengineer. I added this honorcode, because the author is selling his product there and i donīt want to be his marketing. So be warned.)[ext] link. This site is in german. The author is telling there that he builds in a sound"thing" to compensate that it is not made out of a traditional japanese wood.
As you mentioned that it took you over one year for drying your glued piece i wonder if one can speed up production by using better glue or by drying in a drying room. If this is possible?
Regards JamSon?

Kjeld Petersen Somewhere I read that a board should have some strings (like a guitar) at the downside. So when you placed a stone the strings would start to vibrate, but I don't know if this is true. There is also this story about the hole at the downside. It should be so large, that if you loose, you can turn the board up-side-down, and you can use it when you decapitate your opponent. His head would then fall into the hole. But I think this is just at story.
About drying. I din't have access to any other glue at the time I build it. But I think I could have used less glue. Not pasting the whole surface, but only 2-3 cm around the edge, and it would still hold perfectly. Don't forget that when you put on glue, it has to run out when you presses the pieces together. Then you will get best solution. Otherwise there is a risk that there will be some open caps between each of the 9 pieces.

JamSon?: Does nobody of the senseis users have a traditional goban? If yes he could be so nice and take the measure, as it seems to be one of the yet open questions at senseis. If he does a good job fame is almost guaranteed ;-)
By the way a nice story. Thank you very much for realizing your project and informing others less enlightened of it. Regards JamSon?.

Bob McGuigan: The dimensions of traditional boards vary from maker to maker. See Equipment Dimensions and sources referenced there for more information.

PatG: I think JamSon? was referring to the cutout in the underside of the Goban which helps give the right sound. The equipment page doesn't appear to give and dimensions for this. It would be a useful addition to get even a rough estimate of the dimentions for the sound hole.

JamSon?: Please excuse my inaccurateness. Both BobMcGuigan and PatG are right. People already have done a good job on compiling data about goban(s), but the question to the sound hole still remains. I wonder if there is really nobody with a traditional goban.



Path: MakingYourOwnEquipment   · Prev: BlindGo   · Next: KoshGobans
This is a copy of the living page "Goban Self Made" at Sensei's Library.
(OC) 2004 the Authors, published under the OpenContent License V1.0.