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Who should play on which board size
    Keywords: Equipment

(Anonymous:) Our local clubs and tournaments discourage players of less than 10kyu from playing on 19x19 boards.


I find that really unusual. I've been playing regularly on a full size board for about a year now, and I've just recently gotten to the point where saying I'm 'about 10k' would be a stretch rather than an untruth. I don't know if I would have stayed with the game if people at the club had been encouraging me to play only 13x13 for the past year.

- saccade

(Sebastian:) This is really unusual. In our go club's small boards competition, the prize was a set of stones with a (plastic) 19x19 board, with the explicit request that the winner should play on 19x19 boards from now on. He is about 20k.

Alex Weldon: I'm against beginners playing only on small boards for the same reason that I'm against them playing only handicap games; it's a different game. 9x9 is fine for teaching someone a bit about tactics, but once a player is used to the basics (and I mean really BASIC basics, like 20-25 kyu), they should start playing 19x19 IMHO. Of course, playing smaller boards is fine sometimes (I'm 1 dan and still play 9x9 sometimes, just for fun) but NEVER playing 19x19 until you're 10k? That's ridiculous. I understand the idea behind it; learn all about tactics first before starting on broader strategic issues... but I think it's better to learn both concurrently, by playing on a variety of board sizes, starting as early as possible.

ChrisSchack: For 9x9, I would say it's a fairly different game. For 13x13, you're seeing some of the issues of 19x19, but territory is worth more ... this seems a good way to force people to need to unlearn things.

Seems to go hand in hand with how some people teach the game, i.e. Capture One to Capture 5 before even talking about territory. However, I think it's very important to learn how tactical issues affect and are affected by strategic ones--otherwise, you're only getting a small part of the game. People who have only played on 9x9 until '10k' most definately aren't 10k.

--Alex Baxter (15k KGS)

Perhaps there's something to this idea, but it's too extreme. Does it make sense that new players shoud concentrate on 9x9 up to around 25k and 13x13 up to around 20k?

Charles I believe Michael Redmond says 13x13 up to 13 kyu (maybe European 15 kyu). This is right for some people. That way you'd learn little real strategy until you're out of the social player stratum. I don't think this suits everyone; but there's something to it as a theory.

AndreasTeckentrup I heard a rule of thumb for 9x9 boards: play until you can beat a decent player (around 10-15k maybe) regularly taking 3 stones and then move on to bigger boards. If you can win taking 3 stones, this shows you got a grip on basic tactics and life + death.

RafaelCaetano: Although playing only 9x9 until 10k is certainly an exaggeration, I believe most players move to 19x19 too soon, sometimes right after learning the rules. So people as strong as KGS 18k still make elementary mistakes such as not recognizing false eyes, basic nakade, hanetsugi on the second line, snapback, etc.

In principle you could substitute studying problems for playing 9x9. But apparently not many beginners are willing to study problems systematically instead of playing.

Hikaru79: Although I'm only 13-15k, I've had a lot of experience introducing others to the game, since I was the only go player at my school, and had the job of introducing everyone else to it. At first, I taught them using 9x9's because everyone said you should, but I realized that if I used 9x9's as a teaching tool for too long per person, they would build habits that would then take almost as long to break. A typical 9x9 student would then spend their first 19x19 month as one of those players who starts a fight in a corner which then spreads across the board as one big surrounding contest, and which usually ends in the capture of a large group. After seeing this so many times, I've become under the opinion that 9x9's should be used very little, if at all, in teaching newcomers. It may be more daunting for them to play 19x19 right away, but at least when they get the hang of it, they don't have to relearn everything again. As for only being 10k when switching up, I feel that it would be practically impossible to reach a REAL 10k on a 9x9. Perhaps they mean being able to beat a regular 10k, which is completely different. I can beat people way over my rank (1-dan) on 9x9 whom I would normally have no chance against. Just my 2 cents.

BobMcGuigan: Aside from very basic tactical knowledge, beginners lack appreciation for how moves in one part of the board affect other parts of the board. If they play on 9x9 boards this interaction becomes apparent very soon. Also they learn many basic tactics in fighting and the endgame. Moving up to 13x13 at the right time can continue this learning process because things are still close enough together. So I think beginners will learn more good habits of thought than bad if they start on small boards. Staying on small boards up to 10k seems extreme but if the rest of the club members are strong dan players and they don't like to use handicaps higher than nine stones, the 10k player will have to play on small boards to equalize the game.

Bill: When I learned to play go, I never played on a smaller board than 19x19. As a result, I got used to whole board thinking early and avoided some bad habits. OTOH, I made embarrassing elementary errors in life and death. As a 4-kyu I did not even know the basic dead shapes!

Now I think that beginners should start on the 5x5. When they can win as Black against best play, they should move up to the 7x7. When they can win as Black on that, they should mix them up between the 9x9 and the 19x19, gradually phasing out the 9x9. I do not see much pedagogical point to the 13x13.

BTW, when I teach kyu players, I often have them play Black against me on the 9x9.

Charles I think 13x13 is very useful. Not perhaps for those who are the quickest learners; but for everyone else, 13x13 offers a great deal in the range about 25 kyu to 18 kyu. That covers most self-taught players, in fact.

Bill: I think that 13x13 go is a fine game in its own right. :-) Pedagogically, it seems to me that the 9x9 is fine for tactics. As for strategy, the strategy for the 13x13 seems sufficiently different from that of the 19x19 that you might as well just go straight to the big board.

Charles, what do you see as the advantages of the 13x13? Thanks. :-)

Charles At this time of year my club has a group of beginners (30, or more). Some of them outgrow the possibilities of a 9x9 in an evening, when they play each other. So we suggest they use a 13x13, and that gives much more scope for interest, up to 20 kyu. Note that they are learning some basic strategy in parallel with life-and-death at this point.

More generally, we use 13x13s? as club handicap games in tournaments: it means that handicaps can cover over 20 grades. I don't rate 13x13 as an interesting game (to me), but that's partly because I play a fair amount of it. High-handicap 13x13 with free placement and quick time limits, which is what we play in our events, is quite good fun, because you get a very varied set of games through an evening.


Klaus: Some time ago, I started to use a new board sice: 7x7! It is fun to play, and one can learn a lot about tesuji like the 2 stone edge squeeze?. Carelessly losing 2 Poinst in yose will cause disaster and a lot of reading is required to handle this size. An example can be found at 7x7 game.

Charles Dull, so far.

Klaus: A RecentChangesJunkie can`t wait? Well, I forgot to mention, that Black should not be allowed to play on 44 with his first move!

Charles Better now you've added some plays ...



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