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How to win With a 9 stone handicap
Path: HandicapGoPath   · Prev: HowToWinAgainst9StoneHandicap   · Next: ChessWhizAgainstLavalyn
   

Now, some people would say that this needs no explanations, but, in my humble opinion, the only people who receive these handicaps are weak, or weaker than the likes of Bill, Dieter, unx... so maybe a view from you guys how to play it?

Offhand, I was thinking, mirror go isn't ideal, but how about Partial Mirror Go? I don't know if someone else has already thought of this, but, here's my views on the subject.

--Jasonred


Charles Matthews Like it says in the book, Black must attack.

Not for too long, though: Black's initial position makes it safe to attack, but as White settles groups it becomes more dangerous for Black's own weak groups. And not too hard, either: that leads into the amarigatachi mistake of playing out 'over the top' attacks to the bitter end. No, attack to make territory: to build frameworks and later to consolidate them.


Jan: I find it very useful to try to separate White in order to get targets to attack. Also when I think I am about to be surrounded by White, I don't try to live, but I always try (and usually succeed) to escape into the center. In a nine-stone handicap game, Black will usually have something to escape to...


Bill: First, why?

As White I regard a high-handicap game as a teaching game. Why shouldn't Black do the same? Just make what you think are the best moves, and learn something when they are not the best. :-)

The standard advice for high handicap games is to balance attack and defense 30-70, the reverse of the mix for even games. There is something to that, but I always attacked like hell with high handicaps, and, looking back, have no regrets. Besides, and more importantly, that advice says nothing about dual-purpose moves. You should always look for dual-purpose moves.

The advice of chess master E. A. Znosko-Borovsky is good: It is not a move that you seek, not even the best move, but a realizable plan.

Here is an example to illustrate these ideas.

[Diagram]
Diag.: Example 1 (i)

For Black 2 several dual-purpose moves come to mind, such as the marked points, which combine attack with making territory or moyo. I want to show you another one that is a bit unusual, but rather good for high handicaps, I think.


[Diagram]
Diag.: Example 1 (ii)

At first glance, Black 2 looks passive. However, it is a good, dual-purpose move. It makes a base for Black's marked stone while making it difficult for White 1 to make a base. Black's plan, such as it is, is to solidify his lead while attacking White's weak stones, such as White 1.


[Diagram]
Diag.: Example 1 (iii)

A lot of Black players would respond to White 3 at a, but that would be too passive. Divide and conquer is the rule, in line with Black's nascent plan. Black plays Black 4 - White 7.
Now a is surely the best move. However, Black is looking for a realizable plan. If Black a and then White pushes and cuts, things get complicated. The plan might go down the drain. Black 8 is prudent in a high-handicap game. (Note that it is still dual-purpose, combining attack and defense.)


[Diagram]
Diag.: Example 1 (iv)

White is busy, and thus not too likely to continue with White 9, but I wanted to show you Black 10 and make a comment.
This position is similar to a double kakari joseki where White has a stone at a instead of the marked stone. This position may be slightly better for White, but not by much, despite Black 8.
Black 10 is the kind of play that weaker players often overlook. It doesn't seem to do very much. However, it is a nice, thick play that solidifies Black's stones, casts its influence towards the center and left side, and attacks White's marked stone on a large scale: a triple-purpose move! :-)
You might think that Black b would be a better attack against the white stone, since it virtually assures its capture. But, by the same token, that would make it easy for White to give the stone up. The large scale attack risks the stone's eventual escape, or, more likely, that White will get some useful aji out of it, but it is the way to go. If either of those things happen, Black should be able to get compensation -- not equitable compensation, he's taking nine stones --, but good enough. Besides, White b would make it easy for White. Black's job is not to make it easy for White.


[Diagram]
Diag.: Example 1 (v)

To White 1 Black might respond at, say, 3 or a, but then White might play at 2 or b, and the plan to attack the marked stone could go right down the drain. Black 2 continues the plan, attacking that stone on a large scale. It also attacks White 1. It is OK to allow the double kakari.
In response to White 3, Black can separate the two white stones and attack White 1. However, I want to show you an idea of Maeda Nobuaki's.


[Diagram]
Diag.: Example 1 (vi)

Black trades the iron pillar for the double kakari (all marked with squares). Now White 4 would be intolerable, so Black plays there, inviting White 5. Maeda's idea is to play tenuki to the first kakari, exchange 4 and 5 to the second kakari, and then play tenuki again.
Black could continue the fight, but he is outnumbered locally. It is OK to play elsewhere. Why should Black fight where he is outnumbered and outclassed? He can always come back, and besides, it is difficult for White to capture Black 4 and the marked stone.
If Black plays elsewhere, he has many good plays. Black 6 is one you might not have thought of. It does not secure the corner, but it has a good relation to the nearby handicap stones. :-)


[Diagram]
Diag.: Example 1 (vii)

You don't see White 1 that often but Kajiwara Takeo likes it. ;-) Black 2 is a normal reply.
Black 4 initiates a battle where Black is locally outnumbered. A play at a or b may be wiser, but I wanted to show you something about approaching such fights, which are hard to avoid completely.


[Diagram]
Diag.: Example 1 (viii)

Instead of Black 1, Black 4 is surely correct, but then the two Black stones marked with circles will undergo an attack. Black 1 - 3 secures them and makes territory while threatening Black 4: more dual-purpose plays. After White 4, running with the black stone marked with a square may be the best play, but it is the kind of thing of which nine-stone disasters are made. Better to regard that stone lightly and threaten to run with it.
Black 5 is another nice, thick play, extending Black's moyo while supporting a possible run-out with the marked stone.
Black's play may appear inconsistent, since he initiated an attack, but then dropped the ball. However, he still has some aji left, and has strengthened his position on the left side, making territory and extending influence. The attack has allowed him to make this trade.
Has White gotten the better of the deal on the left side? Surely. But if Black keeps making deals like this, he will win handily. ;-)

In short, make a plan, look for dual-purpose plays, think big, attack, make trades, sacrifice stones, play thickly. Good luck!



I'm only an AGA 6 kyu, but do play above my strength at high handicaps, so:

A few rules for Black in nine-stone games:

  • Stay connected and life will come automatically.
  • Disconnect White when possible.
  • Given a choice between a simple move, and one that allows complication, always choose the simple one. This is the most common black failure I see when playing White against high handicaps.
  • Don't try to kill White. Do attack for profit if White leaves a weak group.
  • Any time White makes a defensive move, play tenuki. Make a big move or attack a weak group. Preferably both.
  • If White makes a too-obvious overplay or play tenuki away from a killable group, attack. One of two things will happen:
    • White will teach you about your mistaken reading.
    • You will get a nice profit where White was trying to fake you out.
  • Remember, at nine stones Black can win by ignoring most of White's moves. Figuring out which ones you can't ignore is the hard part.
  -- Darron Shaffer

Adamzero: I think it should be noted that while a lot of these bits of advice will increase your winning percentage as Black in nine-stone games, I do not beleive they will increase your strength particularly well or quickly. I think that the best thing one can do is play your hardest, and try to play as though you were White's equal (not as though he were yours, there is a big difference). If you think your move would be passive, but you know it is safe and could help you win, play the move you think is correct and severe. Instead of letting White settle in order to take profit and win by attrition, attack White and punish her for playing too deeply in your sphere of influence.

All this may cause you to lose more games, as White's tactical superiority is so great, but you'll be forming good habits, even game habits, not huge handicap habits. And you'll be forcing White to play reasonable moves, for fear that you'll punish her for playing too ambitiously or disrespectfully. All of this will help you get stronger, though it might be disheartening to lose so much. But if you're taking nine stones, the goal should not be winning, but learning. (Just my two cents.)



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This is a copy of the living page "How to win With a 9 stone handicap" at Sensei's Library.
(OC) 2003 the Authors, published under the OpenContent License V1.0.